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A Food Lover's Must-Read! My 12 Days Learning to Cook in Nice, France - A Journey That Made Me Fall in Love with the City
2025-02-22   read:89

An Unexpected Journey

A chance opportunity led me to this life-changing culinary journey. Last fall, while mindlessly scrolling through my phone, I came across a 12-day cooking course in southern France on "Let's Eat The World." I was immediately captivated by this program - not a superficial food tour, but an immersive French cooking course. Honestly, I used to be quite prejudiced against French cuisine, thinking every dish was just an artistic show-off, pretentious, and ridiculously expensive. But now, looking back, if I hadn't enrolled in this course, I probably would never have truly understood how meticulous French cuisine really is.

When I first saw the course, I was hesitant about signing up. Twelve days was quite a commitment, and it wasn't cheap either. But then I thought, with how exhausting work usually is, why not give myself a special holiday? Plus, the chance to learn from professional chefs was too rare to pass up. So I made up my mind and immediately paid for the registration.

The wait after signing up was absolute torture. I started frantically searching online for everything about Nice. This coastal city in southern France seemed like a pearl set along the Côte d'Azur. I saw many food bloggers recommending Nice's seafood and local socca. Just looking at the pictures made my mouth water.

First Arrival in Nice

Finally, departure day arrived! I remember when I first arrived in Nice, the sunlight on the Côte d'Azur was so bright I could barely open my eyes. The sunlight here was completely different from back home, carrying a gentle golden hue that fell on the ancient buildings, creating an otherworldly beauty. Our small group consisted of eight people from around the world. To my delight, our leader Laurent was the former head chef of the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Louis XV. Not only was his culinary skill exceptional, but he also had an encyclopedic knowledge of Southern French ingredients and food culture.

Laurent appeared to be around 50 but was very energetic, and his eyes would light up when talking about food. He greeted us with his heavily French-accented English, joking: "From now on, you're my students. I'll teach you everything I know, but be prepared to feel stuffed every day!"

On the first evening, Laurent took us to a local restaurant. The place was hidden in an alley in the old town - we would never have found it without him. The restaurant's decoration was simple, but every table was full. Laurent said the chef was an old friend who had been running the place for over 30 years. We tasted authentic Nice specialties, like zucchini fritters fried golden and crispy in olive oil, and roasted lamb chops seasoned with local spices. That night, we ate and chatted, creating a wonderful atmosphere. Laurent specially introduced us to each herb used in the side dishes, telling us they were all picked from nearby mountains.

Market Adventures

Starting from the second day, we entered "boot camp" mode. Every morning at 6 AM, we would follow Laurent to the Cours Saleya Market. This was no ordinary morning market, but Nice's most famous food hub. I remember our first market visit when Laurent gave us a vivid lesson. He picked up an eggplant, gently squeezed it and said, "See this color? Purple with a hint of blue-black - that's the best. It should feel elastic but not too hard." Then he pointed to a pile of oddly-shaped tomatoes saying, "In Nice, we don't care how tomatoes look; what matters is their taste. Smell them - truly fresh tomatoes have a distinct grassy scent."

Every vendor in the market seemed to know Laurent. They would greet him warmly and often save their best ingredients for us. One particularly interesting seafood vendor would dramatically shout "Ah! My little chefs have arrived!" whenever he saw us, then show us his morning's fresh catch.

I'll never forget my first visit to the seafood stall. Laurent taught us how to select fresh fish: first check the gills - they should be bright red; then the eyes - they should be clear and bright; finally, the scales - they should be tight and glossy. He had us smell different fish, explaining that truly fresh fish should have the saltiness of the sea but absolutely no fishy smell.

In the produce section, we encountered various vegetables I'd never seen before. Like the purple mini eggplants, supposedly unique to Provence, which make excellent grilled dishes. There were also "Roman zucchini flowers," which could be battered and fried into tempura with a delicately sweet taste.

After each shopping trip, we would push our carts full of ingredients back to the classroom. Along the way, Laurent would explain the dishes we'd be making and why we chose these specific ingredients. He said, "In France, we believe ingredients determine 80% of a dish's quality. The Michelin-starred restaurants you see often use the simplest cooking methods but with the finest ingredients."

Unveiling French Culinary Arts

Did you know? What French cooking values most isn't presentation, but respect for ingredients. Laurent told us that the essence of French cuisine is "moins est plus" (less is more). For instance, when making a simple Provençal stew, the key isn't how many ingredients you use, but how you let each vegetable perfectly express its own flavor.

Laurent particularly emphasized temperature control. He said, "Many people think French cuisine is difficult, but the hardest part is controlling the heat. Too high will destroy the ingredients' natural flavors, too low won't bring out their aromas." He taught us to feel pan temperature with our hands, listen to the sound of oil, and observe ingredient changes. These seemingly simple details require extensive practice to master.

During the course, we learned many classic French cooking techniques. Like how to properly cut onions (there's a technique to avoid crying!), how to make perfect French fried eggs (use very low heat and cook slowly until the white sets but the yolk remains semi-liquid), and how to make various sauces (French mustard sauce has strict proportional requirements).

Unforgettable Lessons

I remember one day when we were learning to make classic Niçoise salad. Laurent said, "Many people think Niçoise salad is just throwing together lettuce, tuna, and boiled eggs. But in a true Niçoise salad, each ingredient must be prepared in a specific way." He demonstrated how to marinate small peppers, pit olives, and even the specific olive oil to use for the tuna.

This seemingly simple salad took us nearly two hours to make. First, the cherry tomatoes had to be quartered but not completely separated, maintaining a certain shape. Then the boiled eggs, cooked until the yolks were just set but still moist. Most particular was the dressing preparation, using the finest extra virgin olive oil, the right amount of red wine vinegar, then adding crushed garlic and fresh herbs. Laurent said, "These details may seem fussy, but each step represents wisdom passed down through hundreds of years."

Another time, we learned to cook French steak. Laurent emphasized meat selection and handling. He said good steak should have proper marbling (fat distribution), and must return to room temperature before cooking. He taught us to test doneness with our fingers: when pressing the steak feels like pressing the flesh at the base of your thumb, it's medium. This trick is really practical!

Unexpected Gains

Most surprisingly, this course not only taught me cooking but changed my entire understanding of food. For instance, I learned how to judge a fish's freshness - not by price, but by gill color and eye clarity. I also learned why Nice's olive oil is stored in dark glass bottles - to prevent sunlight from destroying the oil's nutritional components.

Laurent also taught us many practical kitchen tips. Like running knife blades under cold water before cutting onions to reduce irritation; making pasta water as salty as the Mediterranean; adding a bit of white wine when making fish soup to remove fishiness and enhance flavor. These seemingly simple techniques are the crystallization of his decades of experience.

During learning, I discovered French people have an almost obsessive pursuit of ingredient freshness. Laurent told us many French restaurants adjust their menus according to seasonal ingredients. He said, "This isn't just about ensuring freshness, but respecting nature's rhythms."

Beyond the Flavors

This journey wasn't just about food. After each afternoon class, we would share our stories in the kitchen. There was a sushi chef from Tokyo, a food critic from New York, and food enthusiasts like me. Though we came from different cultural backgrounds, we became friends through our love of food.

We often discussed our countries' food cultures. The Tokyo sushi chef would explain Japanese people's ultimate pursuit of ingredients, while the New York food critic would share the latest American food trends. These exchanges made me realize that while our cooking methods differ, our love for food is universal.

Every evening, we would enjoy the dishes we made during the day. Laurent would critique everyone's work, but always gently saying, "There's no best dish, only the most suitable cooking method." This statement left a deep impression on me.

Cultural Fusion

Can you imagine? One evening, we fused Eastern and Western cuisines to create a "French sushi roll." We replaced traditional wasabi with French herbs, paired with local fresh seafood, and it tasted surprisingly good. This made me understand that food should never have boundaries.

That night, we used fresh local tuna, Provençal herbs, and some preserved lemon peel. The sushi chef taught us rolling techniques, while Laurent handled the sauce. The final product retained sushi's freshness while carrying rich Mediterranean flavors.

These cross-cultural food experiments were particularly interesting. We tried Chinese dishes with French sauces and French dishes with Asian seasonings. Each attempt brought surprises and deepened our understanding of different culinary cultures.

Life Attitude

My days in Nice gave me a deep appreciation for French people's pursuit of life quality. They won't hastily deal with a meal to save time; even the most ordinary workday lunch deserves proper enjoyment. Isn't this attitude worth learning from?

I noticed locals rarely take food to go. Even with short lunch breaks, they'll sit down for a proper meal. Laurent said, "Eating isn't just about filling your stomach, it's socializing, relaxing, and enjoying life."

In France, lunch typically lasts one to two hours. People will have a glass of wine, slowly enjoy their food, and chat with colleagues or friends. This pace of life felt strange at first, but gradually I came to appreciate this attitude toward life.

Laurent often said, "Good food needs time to prepare and time to enjoy." Here, fine food isn't a luxury but an essential part of daily life. This concept deeply influenced me and made me rethink my lifestyle.

Lingering Memories

Now back home, I often think of those days in Nice. Every time I cook, I unconsciously use the techniques I learned. Like letting meat return to room temperature before frying steak, and controlling heat when stir-frying. These details all reflect Laurent's repeatedly emphasized "respect for ingredients."

I often make dishes I learned in Nice. Although I might not find exactly the same ingredients, applying the same cooking philosophy to local ingredients often produces great results. Laurent was right - what's important isn't exactly replicating a dish, but understanding the cooking philosophy behind it.

Recently, I've started inviting friends over for meals. Like Laurent taught us, I take every step seriously, starting from ingredient selection. Seeing friends enjoy the food reminds me of those happy times in Nice.

Sometimes I think, without these 12 days, I might never have understood why French people treat food as an art. Now when I cook, I remember Laurent's words: "Cooking isn't about filling stomachs, it's about making life more beautiful."

This journey changed my understanding of food and my lifestyle. I learned to slow down and enjoy food, appreciate ingredients' natural flavors, and use food to express love for life.

Have you had similar culinary learning experiences? Or would you like to experience such a food journey in Nice? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments.

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